El textil como resistencia

Esta semana, tuve la oportunidad de hablar con Ana Laura Palacios, una chica muy joven y talentosa, que vive en Juchitán, Oaxaca y su familia vive en San Mateo del Mar. 

Ella me cuenta que después del temblor de 2017, varios artesanos fueron afectados en San Mateo, sus casas se derrumbaron, al igual que los hornos donde cocinan y muchos perdieron sus herramientas de trabajo. A partir de esto, Ana Laura decidió comenzar un proyecto con artesanas de San Mateo, llamado “Manos del Mar”, un nombre que me parece muy bonito.

"Se denominó así, porque sin duda, las manos son la herramienta con la que trabajan las maestras y maestros artesanos para crear los diseños que se comparten, mar por la fuerza que esta tiene y que siempre se tiene presente en cada situación en la que nos encontramos." 

Aleida Oviedo, artesana de cadenilla y su familia. 
Foto tomada por Ana Laura Palacios

 A partir de entonces, poco a poco, Ana se ha ganado la confianza del grupo y se han capacitado con sus propias herramientas para crear hermosos huipiles con bordados de cadenilla, también tejidos en telar de cintura, con esto, han buscado mejorar su economía y consolidar la actividad textil de San Mateo.

 

  Artesanas ikoots trabajando en los acabados de la cadenilla ikoots.
 Foto tomada por Ana Laura Palacios

Yolanda Infante mostrando el proceso del telar de cintura.  
Foto tomada por Ana Laura Palacios

 

 

Los desastres naturales no han sido los únicos obstáculos con los que se ha enfrentado la comunidad Ikoots en San Mateo del Mar. Este año, en los meses de mayo y junio, han habido conflictos armados:

 

“El presidente municipal de San Mateo del Mar, Oaxaca, Bernardino Ponce Hinojosa, confirmó el asesinato de 15 personas, entre ellas dos mujeres, quienes en su momento habían denunciado actos de hostigamiento y acoso por parte de sus vecinos, pobladores de la comunidad indígena ikoot de Huazantlán de Rio, en la región del Istmo de Tehuantepec”

 

“De igual manera mencionó que integrantes del crimen organizado estuvieron involucrados en “esta tragedia sin precedentes”, pues buscan apoderarse de este territorio por su ubicación estratégica para cometer diversos delitos relacionados con el tráfico de indocumentados y combustible robado.” Fuente: Periódico Excelsior.


Parte del bloqueo en Huazantlán. 
Foto tomada por Ana Laura Palacios

 

Además de estos conflictos, el coronavirus ha llegado a la región del Istmo y no hay pruebas, ni medicinas, ni hospitales. “Hemos escuchado de gente contagiada”, “ las personas se curan con lo que tienen a la mano” “ yo les paso medicamentos cuando no encuentran en San Mateo”, dice Ana Laura.

 A pesar de los bloqueos y las barricadas que hay en San Mateo, las mujeres siguen bordando y tejiendo, Ana Laura les pasa material y comercializa los huipiles que con gran esfuerzo se logran terminar.

“El día de la balacera, las mujeres siguieron bordando y tejiendo, al siguiente día me dijeron que tenían piezas terminadas”, “El textil es resistencia, estamos resistiendo”, cuenta Ana Lau. 

Mujeres ikoots caminando con sus alimentos en el bloqueo. Foto tomada por Ana Laura Palacios


El año pasado tuve la oportunidad de trabajar en San Mateo del Mar, fue muy sorpresivo porque desde hacía tiempo que la belleza de sus textiles me atraían y me daban ganas de conocerlo. De pronto, sin esperarlo, me hablaron para invitarme a dar un taller, la fecha estaba muy próxima y todo fue apresurado pero no quise perder esa oportunidad. Fui a San Mateo y pude conocer la belleza de sus paisajes, de sus textiles, la calidez de la gente, la delicia de la comida...

Entrada a San Mateo del Mar. Foto tomada por Lila Ceballos

 

   
Comida tradicional que me compartieron. 
Foto tomada por Lila Ceballos
   
Horno tradicional donde hacen totopos.
 Foto tomada por Lila Ceballos

 

Luego de un año de visitar San Mateo, me encontré con la cuenta de Manos del Mar en instagram, después de ver un video que Ana Laura publicó, me conmovió en demasía y no dudé en contactarla. Comenzaremos a colaborar juntas a distancia, hablamos sobre los diseños y colores que les interesa trabajar, decidimos desarrollar una línea tradicional, con los colores y telas brillantes que les gusta usar y otra línea de innovación, con telas de algodón y nuevas combinaciones de color. Para mi, este es un comienzo de diseño colaborativo.

Los textiles en San Mateo han resistido muchas décadas, ahora resisten en un mundo capitalista, en un entorno de violencia e incertidumbre, pero sus textiles siguen comunicando la belleza de San Mateo y de sus habitantes ikoots.

Deseo que pronto puedan salir sin miedo y Manos del Mar siga floreciendo.

Paisaje en San Mateo del Mar. Foto tomada por Lila Ceballos




*Periódico Excelsior https://www.excelsior.com.mx/nacional/conflicto-en-san-mateo-del-mar-oaxaca-deja-15-muertos/1389676  

 

27 comentarios

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